Thursday, 17 April 2014

Full book to download - Wartime Cookery - 1939

Hello all

A double post from me today but I wanted to share my latest adorable find with you.  If you click on the link below you should be able to access a copy of a 1939 Wartime Cookery book my dearest bought me as a gift at the weekend.


It has some wonderful advice regarding diet and some really interesting recipes.

Enjoy!

Wartime Cookery from 1939

Pantone colour of the year - Radiant Orchid - a shopping review



It's that time again, Pantone colour of the year.  This year is a shade from the purple family - not my favourite colour at all.  Purple, for me, reminds me of my mother, the 1970s and hippiness. 

Still, it's a great colour visually, and has been highly prized since the Phoenicians first squashed a sea snail in 1570 BC.  in fact, due to it's rarity and consequent expense it has long been seen as the colour of royalty.

The purple Pantone have chosen for 2014 is more on the violet side, a bluer tone than the grand purple of the Catholic church and is named "Radiant Orchid."

In fact Leatrice Eismann, of Pantone states Radiant Orchid "encourages expanded creativity and originality" and that " the hue 'radiates on the skin, producing a healthy glow when worn by both men and women.'

Well, there you go then!


So, as I did last year for Emerald Green, I decided to take a little jaunt through the web for some vintage and VI listings that fit the colour palette.

The first place to look is the glorious Dorothea's Closet website, where the lovely owner has herself
created a palette based on Radiant Orchid.  Sadly I couldn't steal the pics for the blog but do take a look.

The wonderful Rosie Alia has some beautiful orchid hair clips in her Etsy store, and if I'm not much mistaken is also making some Japanese style orchids with waterfall effect that are not yet listed.  I'd also recommend perusing her other listings.

Set of two orchid hair flowers, £7 - RosieAlia designs



This 1920s sailor dress is simply incredible - if it fit me I'd snap it up in a second.

1920s sailor dress, £134, Vintage Runway



I'm always on the lookout for blouses and this 40s/50s number is divine.

1940s Orchid lace blouse, £18, HomeIdaho


Everyone loves a squaw dress, surely, and while this 50s set has a few issues it is a steal.

Squaw dress, £38, rockthatfrock


These shoes from FabGabs are a delight, look at the heel, the cut outs, the colour!

Shoes, £90, FabGabs


In terms of vintage inspired finds I love the Heyday Elizabeth dress in purple, £150 but aside from that there isn't a lot out there.



I'll admit I'm still not sold on purple, of any kind, but looking through the listings was jolly fun.

Do you like purple?  I'd love to hear about your favourite purple vintage items.

Wednesday, 16 April 2014

Make a spectacle of yourself



The sun is out!  It's April in the UK and the bloody sun is bloody shining!

And now I'm going to jinx it with a Summer based post...

I couldn't find my sunglasses this morning, I lose things all the time, usually within the confines of my small one bedroom flat. Le sigh.  So it looks like a need a new pair.  Then I thought, ooh, a brief history of sunglasses might be fun, along with some shopping ideas.

You really didn't need my train of thought there, did you?

Anyway, according to Wikipedia (why reinvent the wheel?):

Inexpensive mass-produced sunglasses were introduced to America by Sam Foster in 1929. Foster found a ready market on the beaches of Atlantic City, New Jersey, where he began selling sunglasses under the name Foster Grant from a Woolworth on the Boardwalk.[6] By 1938 Life magazine wrote of how sunglasses were a "new fad for wear on city streets ... a favorite affectation of thousands of women all over the U.S." It stated that 20 million sunglasses were sold in the United States in 1937, but estimated that only about 25% of American wearers needed them to protect their eyes.[7]


Styles have changed a lot over the years and so below is a potted history and some modern examples:

the 1930s and 40s - the originals!

Early sunnies weren't necessarily the most face flattering but I love them nevertheless.  Look at these examples.  The shape tended to be round and the specs rather large

Life Magazine Archive
Bette rocking some white framed sunnies
stylesight.com
The 1930s and 40s - the vintage inspired finds

The gold floral numbers below are uncannily similar to the top pair above - TopShop round sunflower glasses, £20




For the more demure: Black round sunglasses - £4.99, New Look


And some lovely white frames, £9 - ASOS




The 50s and 60s - the originals!

The 50s and 60s really had three main looks.  The cat's eye - which epitomised the glamour and fun of the 50s, the large Wayfarer for mid 50s to mid 60s and the giant bug eye which look great with the more mod-ish 60s styles, taking influence from the space race.

Marilyn in cats eyes

Audrey in oversized Wayfarer frames

Jackie in bug eyes
The 50s and 60s - the vintage inspired finds

These pearl encrusted specs from Jeepers Peepers are just perfect! £18


These are a tad less OTT, Brown animal print half frame sunglasses - £4.99, New Look



Metal frame cats eye sunglasses - oh so Marilyn! - £20, TopShop


Those transitional large Wayfarers - £10, ASOS

And the perfect bug eyes, Jeepers Peepers £18


You may even prefer to find original vintage frames. Through I would recommend getting these reglazed with more modern sun protective glass if you want to take care of your eyes.

I've always had a great service from Dead Mens Spex.  They always have a large range of everything from Victoria to the 80s and can glaze your choice of frame using a prescription sunglass if needed.

These are fab!



What are your favourite glasses styles?  Do you change up depending on your outfit or choose based on your face shape?

Tuesday, 15 April 2014

Old Movie Madness - Heartbeat (1946)



Aaaand - I'm back again.  I've been watching a lot of films lately in my effort to get up to date with my knitting.  This weekend gave me this very sweet Ginger Rogers offering, and who can resist Ginger.

This romantic comedy opens in what appears to be a schoolroom, but it quickly becomes clear that Professor Aristide, in a wonderfully Fagin-esque turn by Basil Rathbone, is teaching them little in the way of morality and everything about survival.

Enter Arlette and her enormous hair (Ginger Rogers), who has just escaped from Reform School without any identification papers and is looking for a new start.

It's enormous, really enormous!

The Professor quickly realises that such a pretty young girl can be an asset to someone living a life of crime and teaches her the tricks of the trade.

Unfortunately Arlette isn't as adept at the trade as expected and is quickly caught stealing a tie pin from a gentleman on the tram.  Said gentleman agrees not to prosecute on the proviso that Arlette help him out with something equally underhand (get your minds out of the gutter people!) and so she agrees to pose as a nobleman's niece at a society party.  Her job being to dance and flirt with young diplomat Pierre, in an attempt to prove that the young man is sleeping with another man's wife.

Arlette finds her evidence, a photo of the lady in his watch, but in a goodhearted gesture intended to save hurt all round she steals the photo, keeping his secret.

Pierre, not realising the beautiful girl on his arm is a thief, is so smitten he drives her home and the pair share a kiss - Arlette's first kiss.  They agree to meet the next day at the station.

Arlette confesses all and Pierre is furious but he agrees to help her and arranges her a sham marriage for her to a friend, to help her get her papers.  He leaves, but realises he might love her and returns to see if his feelings are true.  With him there, Arlette cannot marry another and calls off the wedding.

The question is, will Arlette and Pierre end up together or will they just keep double crossing each other...

It's been a while since I saw something so resolutely mid 40s.  This was '46 - the year before Dior released his New Look into the world - and you can see that '46 was considerably less structured. There aren't the severely nipped in waists we would expect from '47 onwards for example.

The first item of clothing that really caught my eye was this absolutely darling little blouse, up close it is really a chequered print.

 I love the pointy collar, which reminds me of these blouses from Qbiffa on eBay.  I have one of these in black and it's gorgeous.


You can see the print and the little beret it is teamed with here. The film is set on the continent, after all.  You have to have a beret, it's compulsory.


Later Arlette is given a very extravagant gown for the ball.  The skirt is formed of three tiers and the whole thing studded with rhinestones.


More enormous hair, and a massive flower.

 These two tiered dresses are held in the Met Museum and are both from 1946.  It was clearly the done thing to dress like a wedding cake in 1946.


Once Arlette is engaged and has access to some money she seems to love her some sun suits.  The first picture below is a most delightful full-length cover up with big severe military shoulders and two tone stripes across the chest.


As usual she pairs this look with massive hair.  The more you look at it the more spaniely it becomes, unfortunately.


Below you can see a bizarre mohair bra top and high waisted shorts combo.  In fact, I would argue this is an early bikini.  The bikini was officially launched in 1946 and this shows that the wardrobe department on Heartbeat really were making efforts to keep it looking contemporary.


There is also quite an array of striking headgear featured.  The feathery pompom hat below, part of Arlette's dark wedding suit for her sham marriage, is so wonderful and hilarious and so very 1946.  Paired with the freaking massive hair it makes her silhouette almost symmetrical.


In fact it recalled to me this picture from the ever brilliant Fashion Era site


The cheating wife of the ambassador also liked a feathery hat and also had massive hair, here - massive victory rolls.  I'm also more than a little in love with the collarless jacket and the sequinned blouse / jabot.


The lady clearly liked her sparkle, in this scene she seems to have a string of diamonds woven into her updo.


And finally - freaking massive flower style wedding headgear.  Yes, it is petals.  Yes, they are bigger than her forehead.

 This picture, also from fashion-era.com, shows some real folk getting married in '46 with the bride wearing something broadly similar.


A great film for fashion, though there isn't a lot of it.  Arlette, being poor, doesn't have a vast wardrobe to choose from.  Still, I feel the outfits here really show fashion on the cusp of change.  The sun suit about to become the bikini, the military lines about to be replaced by the dangerous curves and voluminous fabric of the New Look.

Oh, and restrained 40s practical dos being usurped by the big fluffy hair that the 50s would adore.

For your delectation, two last pictures of the back of the big hair.









Thursday, 10 April 2014

Old Movie Madness - Love Affair (1939)



Another film I indulged myself in while furiously knitting over the weekend.  This time a little later in the 30's - in fact made in one of my favourite fashion years (the same year as The Women) - glorious 1939.

Love Affair is a sort of romantic comedy drama starring the lovely Irene Dunne and Mr Charles Boyer as a couple who meet on an ocean liner.  Both Terry (Dunne) and Michel (Boyer) are engaged to other people and, given Michel's celebrity playboy reputation they have to be very careful not to give the press the wrong idea.  It seems all their platonic sneaking around fuels the fire of true love, and after much flirting over champagne cocktails, the pair agree to end their relationships and meet up again in six months to see whether the spark is still there with Michel giving up the playboy life to concentrate on becoming a painter.





On the way to their meeting Terry is hit by a car, and is told she may never be able to walk again.  She does not want Michel to know and so does not contact him, leaving him heartbroken, thinking that she did not turn up.


The pair bump into each other a later date - abut Terry manages to hide her condition.  Michel later tracks Terry down, angry and wanting to find out why he was rejected so cruelly.  


It's all very heart rending to tell you the truth, if you are soppy of constitution as I am.  though I suspect for some it might teeter on the brink of mawkish.  Still - we aren't here for the plotline really - we are here for the clothes!


Being set in 1939, the world was on the brink of war, and it can probably be argued that this had an effect on fashion, even in Hollywood and even at this early stage.


Dresses were losing the fluffy, puffiness of the earlier years and become much more structured and incorporating mannish elements.  Whether this was a reaction to the impending war or just that the eyes were sick of the flounces I cannot say.  I suspect a little of each.


You can see the military lines in this FABULOUS dress on Irene Dunne.  I've included a few pictures so you can see the detail.


The puffed sleeves of the earlier 30s have almost gone, with the sleeve caps being set in more cleanly.  The dress is shirtwaist in style, mimicking menswear, with large chevron detailing at the bust.




This coloured detail follows down into the narrow skirt with inset coloured pleats. I like to imagine that this was white with Navy blue accents but it could be yellow and green for all I know!







It's the big buttons that mark this out as late 30s rather than 40s to me.  It's a dream dress.





The picture below, from the blog of the wonderful Subversive Femme shows the shirtwaist design and smaller, harder shoulder treatment.  I love her blog it's probably my absolute favourite, I'd recommend popping over for a browse.




There is also some wonderful evening wear featured, well, what do you expect with gowns by Howard Greer?  I'd love this sequin bolero ensemble.  The shoulder treatment (again, note the emphasis on the shoulder) is positively space age.




 The bolero was really quite the thing in '39, as this image from Wearing History shows




Below shows the most beautiful flowing black evening jacket, which looks divine with the short  curly-top hair, like an early version of Betty Grable's famous poodle do.



Coats are a bit of a theme in this film as a lot of it takes place outdoors - either on the deck of the boat or in the street or on the porch of houses.  This fur trimmed number is divine.  Simple, but with that striking fur panel to add interest.




The piece that stood out for me however was the fur coat Terry wears early in the film.  I think she was wearing this when the couple met, it is probably what made Michel fall in love with her, anyone with the sheer chutzpah to carry off this epic jacket deserves a grand passion.



I mean, seriously, look at the size of that freaking thing.  It's epic.  I want it.



I think I found a picture of Dorothy Lamour working the same jacket, also from '39.  Click here to take a peek.

Big fur coats were definitely a thing in '39.  Earlier in the 30s furs were still big, but tended to be more curvaceous in cut, it is the boxy shape of this fox bolero that really marks it out as a wartime number and this style would continue well into the 40's as the military influence of WWII continued to make it's mark on fashion.  fur coats in fact, were one of the items not rationed in wartime Britain, through they were still costly.

This wonderful article from the Telegraph in 1939 talks about the high demand for furs that year.

I hope you enjoyed my fashion round up of Love Affair (1939).  go watch it.  Make sure you have some tissues.